Kundan vs Polki vs Jadau: The Difference, Explained Simply

Alankar Jewellers, Udaipur  ·  6 min read

Kundan vs Polki vs Jadau: The Difference, Explained Simply 1 - Alankar Jewellers

If you have ever shopped for traditional jewellery in Udaipur, you have heard all three words — Kundan, Polki and Jadau — often used as if they mean the same thing. They are closely related, but they are not identical, and understanding the difference can save you money, help you buy authentic pieces, and let you choose the right jewellery for the right occasion. Here is the complete, honest explanation.

Where it all begins: the Jadau tradition of Mewar

The story starts with Jadau, a craft brought to prominence under the Mughals and perfected over centuries by the karigars (master artisans) of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Udaipur, at the heart of Mewar, became one of the great homes of this art. Jadau is the technique of embedding stones into gold without heat or solder — the gold is refined until it becomes soft enough to hold stones by hand. Both Kundan and Polki jewellery are created using this Jadau technique. So the key point: Jadau is the method; Kundan and Polki describe the style and the stones.

How a Jadau piece is actually made

A single elaborate Jadau piece passes through several specialist hands, which is why genuine pieces command their price:

  1. Ghaat — the base gold framework is shaped.
  2. Khudai — the design is engraved into the gold.
  3. Meenakari — colourful enamel work is applied, usually to the reverse.
  4. Jadai — stones are set into the framework by the setter.
  5. Pathai — thin layers of pure refined gold (the kundan) are pressed around each stone to hold it.
  6. Polishing — the piece is finished and polished.

This is slow, skilled handwork — nothing about authentic Jadau is mass-produced.

What is Kundan?

Kundan refers to the setting technique using highly refined, near-pure gold foil. Traditionally, glass or refined stones are set into the gold framework, and the sparkle comes from the polished stones and the bright gold surround, not from diamonds. It is generally more affordable than Polki; fine Kundan almost always has meenakari (colourful enamel) on the reverse, so flip a piece over to judge quality; and it gives a bright, colourful, high-shine look, perfect for festive and bridal wear.

What is Polki?

Polki uses uncut, natural diamonds in their raw, unfaceted form, set in gold. Because these are genuine diamonds (simply uncut rather than machine-faceted), Polki has a soft, deep, glowing sparkle rather than the sharp flash of a modern brilliant-cut diamond. It uses real natural diamonds, so it carries genuine intrinsic and resale value; it is typically more expensive than Kundan; and it has a rich, understated, heirloom quality that only looks better with age.

Kundan vs Polki: the detailed comparison

If you remember one thing, remember this: the three words describe three different parts of the same object. Polki is the stone. Kundan is the setting. Jadau is the technique that joins them.

PolkiKundanJadau
What it isThe stoneThe settingThe technique
MaterialUncut natural diamond24kt gold foilA craft method, not a material
How it looksSoft, glowing, irregularBright gold framing each stoneOrnate and layered, often enamelled behind
Relative costHighest — it is real diamondMid to highDepends on the stones set into it
Best suited toHeirloom and investment piecesStatement bridal setsAnything where craftsmanship is the point
Resale valueStrong — carries diamond and gold valueMainly the gold valueVaries with the stones used
  • Stones: Kundan uses glass or refined stones; Polki uses uncut natural diamonds.
  • Sparkle: Kundan is bright and colourful; Polki is soft, deep and luxurious.
  • Price: Kundan is budget-friendly; Polki is premium.
  • Weight: Polki sets tend to be heavier.
  • Value and resale: Polki holds real diamond value; Kundan’s value is mainly its gold.
  • Reverse work: Fine Kundan shows meenakari; Polki backs are often gold or enamelled too.
  • Best for: Kundan for colourful, festive, grand looks on a budget; Polki for premium, heirloom pieces.

How to spot genuine Polki and avoid imitations

  • Ask directly whether the stones are uncut natural diamonds or glass and refined stones — a reputable jeweller answers clearly.
  • Genuine Polki should come with diamond certification and a price that reflects the diamond weight; real uncut diamonds are never cheap.
  • Be wary of Polki priced like Kundan; that is a red flag it is not real diamond.
  • Buy from an established, trusted jeweller who stakes their reputation on authenticity.

How to judge quality Kundan

  • Turn the piece over — crisp, detailed meenakari signals fine craftsmanship.
  • Check that stones are evenly set and the gold foil around them is smooth and clean.
  • Feel the weight and finish; quality Kundan feels substantial and well-made.

What makes Polki cost what it does

Polki pricing depends on the diamond quality (colour and clarity of the uncut stones), the total diamond weight, the gold weight and purity, and the making charges for the intricate Jadau work. Two Polki sets that look similar can differ a lot in price for exactly these reasons, which is why a clear breakup matters.

Which should you choose, and when?

  • Kundan — a colourful, festive, grand look at a friendlier price; ideal for brides on a budget and for festive and family wear.
  • Polki — lasting value, real diamonds and a refined heirloom sparkle; ideal for the main bridal set and investment pieces.
  • Both — many brides wear Polki on the wedding day and Kundan for other functions.

Caring for Kundan and Polki

Both are delicate. Keep them away from water, perfume, hairspray and chemicals; store each piece in a separate soft pouch; never soak or scrub them at home; and have them checked and cleaned by your jeweller periodically. Treated gently, they last for generations.

Why buy your Kundan and Polki from Alankar

Since 1980, Alankar Jewellers has crafted authentic Kundan and Polki jewellery in Udaipur — real Jadau craftsmanship, certified diamonds for Polki, BIS-hallmarked gold, transparent pricing, and honest guidance on exactly what you are buying. Visit our showroom in Hajareshwar Colony or ask us to share designs.

Frequently asked questions

Is Polki more expensive than Kundan? Yes — Polki uses uncut natural diamonds, so it costs more and holds more value.

Is Kundan real gold? The setting uses real, highly refined gold; the stones are usually glass or refined stones, not diamonds.

Is Polki a real diamond? Yes — natural diamonds in their uncut form.

Can I get Kundan and Polki in one set? Yes, many designs combine both beautifully.

Which has better resale value? Polki, because it contains real diamonds.

Does Jadau mean Kundan or Polki? Neither specifically — Jadau is the hand-setting craft used to make both.

How do I know my Polki is genuine? Ask for diamond certification and buy from a trusted, established jeweller.

Explore our collections

Browse more from Alankar Jewellers, Udaipur: Kundan Jewellery · Polki Jewellery · Diamond Jewellery.

See the pieces in person: explore our kundan jewellery in Udaipur and polki jewellery in Udaipur, or visit our Hajareshwar Colony showroom.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between kundan and polki?
Polki uses uncut natural diamonds in their raw form. Kundan uses glass or other stones set with refined gold foil. Polki is generally more valuable.
What is Jadau jewellery?
Jadau is the traditional setting technique in which stones are embedded into gold using heated gold foil. Both kundan and polki pieces are made using Jadau work.
How can I tell if polki is real?
Real polki shows natural, uneven facets and some inclusions. Ask for a certificate or a written description of the stones on the bill.
Which is better for a bride, kundan or polki?
Polki suits brides who want heirloom value and a softer sparkle. Kundan offers bigger, more colourful designs at a lower price. Many brides combine both.
How should I store kundan and polki jewellery?
Keep each piece wrapped separately in soft cloth, away from moisture and perfume, and avoid washing it with water.

Visit Alankar Jewellers, Udaipur

See our gold, diamond, polki and kundan collections in person at Alankar Jewellers, Udaipur, 8th Street, Hajareshwar Colony. Open Mon–Sat 11 am – 8:30 pm, Sun 11 am – 7 pm.

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